Tag Archives: bellingham

Day 18 / 19 – Pennine Way – Bellingham to Byrness





Day 18 rest day in Bellingham was a mixture in terms of a result.

The Cheviot Hotel ensured a restful stop however Wednesday’s in Bellingham are not a hive of activity.

Bellingham is a lovely village however it is somewhat of a one horse town.

A couple of shops, the walking kit shop closed down, and three pubs that seem to open on 1980’s licensing hours ensure very little to do unlike Hawes on our first rest day.

The long day was broken by the arrival of long time friends Steve and Rich whom arrived to walk the final three day 43 miles into Kirk Yetholm.

A fantastic show of support I will always be grateful for.

The evening meal in the Rose and Crown was hearty and was punctuated by a surprise entrance from Fred, the Lands End to John O’Groats walker we had previously left at Hebden Bridge.

With tales told of how heavy Steve and Rich’s rucksacks were and what they should do to cut some backpack weight (the kitchen sink and 1000 page book was a tad OTT!) we headed off and arranged a 9:00am start the following day.

The warmest day yet ushered in Day 19 with a 15 mile hike to Bryness.

The walk itself was very much a link walk – getting across to be able to do The Cheviot – a rather uninspiring trek over farms and the Kielder Forest.

This was however a good warm up for Steve and Rich with (over) full packs – a taste of what attrition backpacking takes on feet and limbs.

With a couple of miles left on the day the mileage started to tell on the new arrivals whilst Paul and I were very much in the groove on one of the least testing walks of The Way so far.

Forest View (the old Youth Hostel) at Byrness were our beds for the night, and a delightfully sunny evening ensured a couple of coolers and homecooked evening meal were taken in the garden before retiring to sort out our wild camping rucksacks for the following day.

240 miles done, 2 days and 28 miles and 1 wild camp to go. 🙂


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Day 18 – Pennine Way – Bellingham Rest Day!


Wednesday a rest day, Steve and Rich joining us for the last 3 days.

Full update with Day 19 walk!

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Day 17 – Pennine Way – Twice Brewed to Bellingham





It seems we’ve been really fortunate with our b&b accommodation bookings because you don’t really know what you’re going to get until you get there.

The impressive Saughy Rigg was no exception. A farmhouse come barn conversion set up operating as well as any small hotel with its restaurant and bar.

With a full breakfast inside us we were transported to our starting point of the Pennine Way with a bus load of people doing the Hadrians Wall trail.

The Wall trail appeared very popular, akin to the M1 of national trails. A short but energetic stiff up and down opening two miles saw us complete our section on the wall before we headed north into the forest.

The forest of Northumberland National Park provided cool shelter from the warm midday sun.

The ground in the shade proving boggy in parts, which gave Harv the opportunity to show off his brake dancing technique as he struggled to traverse a log straddling a bog.

Unfortunately the “wee beasties” were taking a liking to me and I was starting to regret wearing my shorts as I was getting a few bites on my legs.

Harvey was walking well and he told me his feet at last were feeling good – it’s only taken 200+ miles!!!

Today was the first time for over a week that we’d met any other PW walkers, but these were walking from the other direction and were only just into it.

Our path took us over undulating farmland terrain and over Shitlington Crags to get us within sight of our next destination – Bellingham.

A short stroll into the sleepy village found us at the Cheviot Hotel, which again looks a comfortable stopover venue. Now looking forward to our last well earned rest day before we have to attempt the strenuous assault of the Cheviots.

Only 42 miles to go!

By Paul Courtney.

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